Its very hard to describe how waking up to sub-zero temperatures, with frozen water all around, trishul peeking from the right and being alone with a cup of tea on your birthday feels like.  All I can say is that it felt great then and looking at this image and thinking back to those hours waiting for the sun to arrive, I can also say that it was one of my best birthdays ever.

Its very hard to describe how waking up to sub-zero temperatures, with frozen water all around, trishul peeking from the right and being alone with a cup of tea on your birthday feels like.
All I can say is that it felt great then and looking at this image and thinking back to those hours waiting for the sun to arrive, I can also say that it was one of my best birthdays ever.

After 20 kms and 8 hours of walking, any ordinary flat camping ground would have sufficed. But we got something incredibly nicer. A pretty little FRH, with a lush green lawn and just the perfect wooden gate to complete the picture.  And yes, not to mention a hot bath and a solid bed after 5 days,

After 20 kms and 8 hours of walking, any ordinary flat camping ground would have sufficed. But we got something incredibly nicer. A pretty little FRH, with a lush green lawn and just the perfect wooden gate to complete the picture.
And yes, not to mention a hot bath and a solid bed after 5 days,

Long past Mandi, the clouds started having some effect without actually shedding a drop of water.  We had gained some height, and the nip in the air and the smell of pines were welcomed with our heads jutting out of open windows. Cannot go without mentioning the totally awesome omlettes at this inconspicuous village, we only learned the name of which on our way back. Of course, after more omlettes.

Long past Mandi, the clouds started having some effect without actually shedding a drop of water.
We had gained some height, and the nip in the air and the smell of pines were welcomed with our heads jutting out of open windows.
Cannot go without mentioning the totally awesome omlettes at this inconspicuous village, we only learned the name of which on our way back. Of course, after more omlettes.

Our destination for our 3-day break away from Delhi, we were at Janjheli, a place never mentioned in any guide book. As green as a forest drunk on the heaviest monsoon. Bright green, which are still green through a layer of sunglasses. More green, cause the sun kept shining, never making us rue our decision of going to the hills in the rainy season.

Our destination for our 3-day break away from Delhi, we were at Janjheli, a place never mentioned in any guide book.

As green as a forest drunk on the heaviest monsoon. Bright green, which are still green through a layer of sunglasses. More green, cause the sun kept shining, never making us rue our decision of going to the hills in the rainy season.

A quick sip before venturing into the 500-odd steps to the temple, at a height of 3200 mtrs.  Views of rolling meadows, and unending pine-covered hills upfront, this is just the parking lot, but its worth being a trek stop, worth a night halt.

A quick sip before venturing into the 500-odd steps to the temple, at a height of 3200 mtrs.
Views of rolling meadows, and unending pine-covered hills upfront, this is just the parking lot, but its worth being a trek stop, worth a night halt.

Another fantastic omlette stop, since they only make omlettes.
With the kind of colours, and weather all around, we could have stopped at any place and turned it into our picnic spot.

Another fantastic omlette stop, since they only make omlettes.

With the kind of colours, and weather all around, we could have stopped at any place and turned it into our picnic spot.

Back at Janjheli, over a cup of tea at a dhaba with a drunk owner. The walls were super arty in their bare-bricked-turquoise look. Anything before this is bound to look good.

Back at Janjheli, over a cup of tea at a dhaba with a drunk owner. The walls were super arty in their bare-bricked-turquoise look. Anything before this is bound to look good.

Sikkim was where a bunch of friends together brought in the new year. One of the best bringing ins. From  the posh MG Road in Gangtok, to the inaccessibly-remote reaches of  North Sikkim, we built stylish snow-men, made angels in snow, had yummy  mexican food, laughed, reminisced, fought and shared beautiful cups of  tea.Here, seen reflecting in my rose-tea, is a star from the christmas decorations, still waiting for the new year.

Sikkim was where a bunch of friends together brought in the new year. One of the best bringing ins.
From the posh MG Road in Gangtok, to the inaccessibly-remote reaches of North Sikkim, we built stylish snow-men, made angels in snow, had yummy mexican food, laughed, reminisced, fought and shared beautiful cups of tea.

Here, seen reflecting in my rose-tea, is a star from the christmas decorations, still waiting for the new year.

Lachung, a quick cup, before heading to zero point.Seen in the background is Mt. Katao, where bengalis reach in dozens to throw snow at each other.

Lachung, a quick cup, before heading to zero point.
Seen in the background is Mt. Katao, where bengalis reach in dozens to throw snow at each other.

In a way so well capturing the essence of travelling-teadom, but still being in one place, Namgyal cafe has the loveliest behind the counter display. Currencies from all over the world, and boxes of all possible flavours of tea (not seen in photo).

In a way so well capturing the essence of travelling-teadom, but still being in one place, Namgyal cafe has the loveliest behind the counter display. Currencies from all over the world, and boxes of all possible flavours of tea (not seen in photo).

So, everyone at Raman dhaba was woken up and rushed into their work day earlier than usual. It was so early that the whole world was sleeping, and so was our driver. A forced stop, so that he would drink some tea, splash some water and be ready for the uphill drive ahead.

So, everyone at Raman dhaba was woken up and rushed into their work day earlier than usual. It was so early that the whole world was sleeping, and so was our driver.

A forced stop, so that he would drink some tea, splash some water and be ready for the uphill drive ahead.

Thanks to Kahwa tea bags being available at so many grocery stores now, finding it on a menu doesn’t surprise me anymore. But it made for a happier morning when I saw this was no product of a tea bag, but fresh tea leaves. 
This, and a super-fast-no-complaints-breakfast (a difficult thing to achieve when 6 extremely hungry and fussy people want to eat) made us go back to ‘drumsticks’ for another meal.

Thanks to Kahwa tea bags being available at so many grocery stores now, finding it on a menu doesn’t surprise me anymore. But it made for a happier morning when I saw this was no product of a tea bag, but fresh tea leaves.


This, and a super-fast-no-complaints-breakfast (a difficult thing to achieve when 6 extremely hungry and fussy people want to eat) made us go back to ‘drumsticks’ for another meal.

Chai Coffee kuchh lenge?
(Will you have tea or coffee?)

our cook for the trek

Raja Bhaiyya, our cook and guide on the Dodital trek, used to ask this at least 3 times a day. Even now, a week later in Delhi, I can still hear this question, in his voice.

Train journeys are my absolute favourite. But more often than not, the pre-journey excitement is a lot more than the one during. I believe a lot of it is owing to the food that is going to be served. Hence shatabdi and rajdhani train journeys are a notch higher in in the excite-o-meter. But the food/drinks are never as great as they are in my head.Irrespective of all that, I will give just about anything to be on a train right now, and drum my fingers on the fold-able food tray while I peek slyly towards the aisle to check how far the server is.

Train journeys are my absolute favourite. But more often than not, the pre-journey excitement is a lot more than the one during. I believe a lot of it is owing to the food that is going to be served. Hence shatabdi and rajdhani train journeys are a notch higher in in the excite-o-meter. But the food/drinks are never as great as they are in my head.

Irrespective of all that, I will give just about anything to be on a train right now, and drum my fingers on the fold-able food tray while I peek slyly towards the aisle to check how far the server is.